That importance of measuring amps is mentioned more in older threads, but not so much recently in the DC to DC charging/solenoid/isolator debates. Without knowing actual DC charging amps, everything else is speculation. My biggest mistake was not measuring actual current flow to the house battery when maximum charging was needed as step #1. That 130 amp alternator suddenly seemed much smaller. It seems the Ford designers deliberately undersized the yellow wire for resistance to limit current flow and the fuse made sure it didn’t rise above 60 amps maximum. 6VDC measured from battery to battery was actually due to resistance from the fuse box source to the solenoid on that small yellow wire instead of across the contacts. DC voltage measured directly across the solenoid’s contacts at maximum charging read. I “won” a 1994 EVTM (wiring) manual and discovered the yellow wire on the solenoid was fed from a hot all the time 60 amp fuse “T” in the engine fuse panel. The other side has the red #4 headed to the house battery. I finally noticed the smallish (no larger than #10) yellow wire on the main contact right side. The continuous duty solenoid is hidden underneath the start battery’s box, accessible by removing the headlamp and looking through a fist-sized hole behind it. That made it seem the solenoid’s contacts were iffy, causing a resistance, reduced amp flow and power loss. Happy, lucky me until noticing that when the house battery needed full charge, the voltage measured from start to house battery positive posts was. I installed a toggle switch to turn off the solenoid when desired. I later found out why the batteries aren’t connected in START. Solenoid energized except in OFF and START. Batteries up front on both sides, connected with a #4 copper wire. The voltage reduces magically to about 14.0 when both batteries are charged and everything’s heated up. I purchased a 1994 Econoline with a factory installed simple solenoid-connected system that seemed to be the fifty dollar special, and a 130 amp alternator that maxed out at 14.8vdc. The values below are from over three years ago, old man memory, might not jive mathematically, and are meant for system operation rather than specifics. This is not for the highly technically skilled posters who’ve advanced way beyond my needs and experience, and surely needs editing. I’m not a Legitimate ExPo Guy, and basically interested in keeping a 12v fridge running with a simple system. Using the alternator for charging an auxiliary battery with a solenoid/isolator OR a DC-DC booster can really tax the alternator. Installing the 50 dollar special does not guarantee high current/amps house battery charging from the alternator even if it has the required high voltage. You don’t know how many charging amps are flowing unless you measure it. If you have the higher voltage, you have amps flowing or you don’t. If you don’t, either boost the alternator’s charging voltage somehow or use other charging systems with the required higher voltage. Either you have a charging system with a high enough voltage or you don’t. The new ‘AC’ diode isolators feature.The 50 dollar dual-battery thread is golden, and great for simple auxiliary battery charging, but It pays to know what you have to begin with. Inserting a Diode or FET splitter will however prevent any return voltage/current from the batteries to the B+, and the alternator will not start. Obviously, DC will be present when the alternator is directly connected to a battery. Some alternators need DC voltage on the B+ output to start charging. This Model Does have Alternator energize input. The result can be that batteries are not charged to the full 100% and age prematurely. Simply inserting the isolator in the cabling between the alternator and the batteries will slightly reduce charge voltage. Please see our book ‘Energy Unlimited’ or ask for specialist advice when installing a diode isolator. This compensates for the voltage drop over the diodes in the isolator. All models are fitted with a compensation diode that can be used to slightly increase the output voltage of the alternator. The Argo Battery Isolators feature a low voltage drop thanks to the use of Schottky diodes: at low current the voltage drop is approximately 0,3 V and at the rated output approximately 0,45 V. Low voltage drop due to the use of high efficiency Schottky diodes. Discharging the accessory battery for example will not result in also discharging the starter battery. The Victron 180-3AC 180 Amp 3 Battery Argo Diode Battery Isolator allow simultaneous charging of two or more batteries from one alternator, without connecting the batteries together.
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